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Assess your house's surrounds shrubs or garden beds must be well clear of the building border and not pay weep holes (the little openings left between bricks to allow water drain out).

Keep places under your house clear don't store items which can reduce the ventilation area under the home.

If you are building a new home, certain construction procedures and materials can lessen the termite risk considerably.

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The Building Code of Australia requires that new houses and extensions have a termite management program in place in most areas (except Tasmania, where the termite risk is negligible). Homes built after July 1995 should have a'durable notice' of treatment fixed into a prominent position in the building (near the meter box or the entrance to a crawl space), listing the:.

If you're building a new home or doing a substantial renovation, be sure to put in proper physical or chemical barriers. A few can be retrofitted but it's easier to install them during construction.

Termite shields (also called ant caps) don't prevent termite activity but bring it into the open, as it's simpler to detect their mud shelter tubes on the metal caps.

Woven stainless steel mesh or finely graded stone particles can be installed in a concrete slab and pit walls around pipe openings and so on, so termites can't undergo those concealed entry points.

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Composite systems such as chemically treated plastic or fabric sheets contain chemicals that'll degrade over time, unlike true physical barriers.

Reticulation systems involve piping fitted under slabs and around the edges of a building with access points for injection of insecticide.

Chemical barriers are employed under and around a concrete slab or around the building piers or footings.

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Synthetic pyrethroids like permethrin or bifenthrin are generally less hazardous than many of the prior insecticides which were banned in most parts of Australia in the mid 1990s.

Fipronil and imidacloprid are particularly effective against termites since they are non-repellant. This means the termites will travel throughout the zone without detecting the chemical and take it back into the colony, therefore contaminating other termites.

Arsenic trioxide dust is a very toxic substance and a confirmed carcinogen for humans. It had been commonly used in the past in termite dusting procedures but has been replaced with less toxic insect growth regulators (IGRs) like triflumuron. This distinctive blue powder is quite effective, but may take somewhat longer than arsenic dust to wipe out a colony.

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This is a somewhat less toxic but view it more expensive alternative that will require routine maintenance. Monitoring and bait stations use very tiny amounts of a low-toxic IGR that affects the termite's exoskeleton and kills them without harming other animals or humans.

The insect manager puts a baiting station (or many ) in the vicinity of the house, usually in-ground.

The station is assessed regularly, repositioned if needed and when termites are found, bait is added to replenish the station.

The kittens accept the bait back to their nest and spread it through grooming, till the colony is eventually wiped out.

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There's no guarantee the termites will really find the bait, so it is generally not a good idea to use a monitoring and lure station as your useful content only approach to termite management.

The normal price of a termite treatment is estimated at around $1300 to $1500 plus potentially several thousand dollars for repairing damage to the building. If you need termite treatment:

Phone several pest managers before committing to one you are unlikely to receive detailed information or a specific price over the phone, however you should be able to get a general impression about the company, their termite treatment and a range of costs you can anticipate.

Compare the optionsquotes, quotations and professionalism of the various pest managers and choose the company you're most comfortable with.

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Consider the type of solutions that the treatment will supply the cheapest quote might only rid you of termites in the brief period while some more expensive integrated approach my response provides much better protection against future termite attacks.

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Do they possess a current licence and up-to-date professional indemnity and public liability insurance certificates

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Will the pest inspector also do the termite treatment, if one is required If not, how experienced is the person who is doing the termite treatment

Can they match, or exceed, the requirements of the Australian Standard (AS4349.3 provides guidelines for inspecting buildings for wood insects; AS3660.2 copes with termite management in and around existing buildings and structures).

Just how long will the inspection take (An ordinary house should take two to three hours to inspect, including the time that the inspector spends discussing the issues us.)

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